How I Went to Lipnice to Get a Book About Švejk Signed

Some time ago, I bought the complete works *The Good Soldier Švejk and His Fortunes in the World War* by Jaroslav Hašek, and after a few months, I finished reading its substantial 650-plus pages. I figured that since I was catching up on things I’d missed in my youth, I might as well head to Lipnice nad Sázavou—the place where the famous author lived and, sadly, passed away at a young age. As is well known, the *U České koruny* (At the Czech Crown) inn in Lipnice is run by the legendary writer’s descendants; you can even buy a copy of the book there, complete with a dedication from his great-grandson, Martin Hašek. So, I decided to pack my copy in my backpack, ask him for a dedication in person, and add a memorable experience to my collection.

The First Attempt Didn’t Work Out

I tried my luck right after arriving. I headed to the local inn for an afternoon beer and a snack. They had „Hašek’s Lager“ on the menu; I gave it a try and took the opportunity to ask if it might be possible to get a book signed. The helpful waitress smiled—as it turned out, I was in luck, since he was actually on the premises—and promised to go find Martin Hašek. A short while later, she returned to say that it wasn't possible just then, but that it would likely be doable later on. In the meantime, I set off to explore the „National Monument of Eavesdropping“ (Národní památník odposlechu), located in the nearby flooded quarries. According to Mapy.com, it was supposed to be a two-hour walk, covering about five to six kilometers.

From mouth to eyes

The route to the monument is signposted right from the village center. The path leads along the road below the castle and then drops steeply downward; however, near the Panská obora guesthouse, you have to decide which part to visit first. I chose to head uphill toward the „Mouth of Truth“ (Ústa pravdy) relief, which is carved into the far side of the quarry. Water covered in duckweed added to the lush green atmosphere of the surroundings. I appreciated the absence of other tourists, which allowed for a peaceful experience of the entire space. It truly is a beautiful spot to sit back and relax.

For my next stop, I chose the „Golden Eyes“ (Zlatý voči)—the most distant site—which requires heading downhill, crossing the road, and continuing along a path that runs between the ponds. Tourists were already walking about here, but fortunately, this didn’t scare off a heron that could be seen on the surface of the Middle Pond (*Prostřední rybník*). The „Golden Eyes“ (*Zlatý voči*) are located on the lower edge of the quarry, inviting visitors to get closer—or, for the more daring, to climb down right up to the sculpture—perhaps to test whether the sphere inside one of the eyes actually rotates. I, however, was content to simply observe and watch the fish that would occasionally break the calm surface of the water.

Where the wall has an ear

All that remained was to head back and make my way up to the final piece of the series: "Bretschneider’s Ear"—named, incidentally, after a secret police agent from the aforementioned novel about Švejk. I found this spot the most picturesque, which is perhaps somewhat evident from the photograph. That is likely why I encountered the largest number of visitors here; twice, people even asked me for directions. Having already explored the entire memorial site, I was fortunately able to help them find their way.

A second attempt

So, I returned to the beginning—to the inn—and ordered a drink for the second time. I looked hopefully toward the woman serving, but I soon learned that I was simply out of luck that day. My second attempt to get a signed dedication also failed, and unfortunately, I didn’t have time for another try.

Well, maybe some other time…